Aged goudas, buttery and addictive, sidle up to pots of pungeant French cow’s milk cheeses. The display case here is jammed with twice as many cheeses as it can well hold, most at the peak of ripeness. You’ll find your epoisses and your morbier and, of course, your Montgomery cheddar. The shop also sells various crackers and accompaniments, including honey and olives.

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